If you're a true Nashville foodie and you haven't tried Miel, stop reading this and call this number: 298-3363. Tell Paul when he answers that you need a table at their earliest convenience...then sit back and enjoy. Reply to this post when you want to say thanks.
Emily and I finally got around to experiencing Miel, and we will be back soon. It was all-around one of the most enjoyable experiences we've had for dinner. As much as I love what East Nashville has to offer, West Nashville has a true contender that foodies should flip over.
So where is this place? Miel Restaurant hides itself behind the immensely popular Bobby's Dairy Dip off Charlotte Ave. One can get a glimpse of the tasteful logo by looking just beyond the neon power of Miel's older neighbor while driving down Charlotte. Miel regularly sends a team to the local Sylvan Park farmer's market, where they offer free samples of some double-chocolate desserts. Needless to say, they drew our attention and we had been hoping to try this place for some time. The City Paper and the Scene gave them strong reviews during their opening months, so we made an effort to drop by for a special occasion.
That special occasion was Emily's birthday. Lest that image stir up memories you've repressed with professional help (anyone thinking O' Garden birthday moments, or intrusive Mexican hats and trumpets?), I usually aim on the side of caution and do not inform the restaurant that we are there for a birthday celebration. There are some things that just aren't worth the worry of how the restaurant will respond, and a romantic dinner for two is one of them.
When I called to make reservations, my amateur self was blown away by the treatment my call received. My call was answered by Paul, who is a manager, and he made several inquiries that had me raising my eyebrows. First, Paul inquired about whether my party had any food allergies that the staff should be aware of. Nice touch. Indeed we do, and I explained them, (sulfites in wine sometimes give Emily a headache). Then Paul asked if we were there to celebrate a special occasion. Great touch. Why yes, its a birthday celebration. Would it be ok, Paul asked, if we placed a candle in her dessert? That would be just fine. So now I'm really looking forward to what they have to offer, knowing that there will be an extra touch on the evening - without the churning confusion of what they will do to us knowing its birthday related. RIP nightmarish interruptions at the O' Garden and random Mexican place!
I really suggest making reservations. On the Saturday we chose to visit all the regular times were taken by 2:00 pm. We were hoping for a later evening anyway, so we got in around 8:15.
The parking lot is literally just behind the local Krystal's. As we walked in towards the restaurant, we could see the drive-thru (no, not through, thru...come on now) ordering placard and tried to forget that the dime liquor store was across the street. I reflected on the current fate of my friends who used to swear by Krystal's. I'm sure they've moved beyond most of their diagnosable delusions.
The hostess greeted us at the front door, and I was surprised to see the kitchen clearly visible from the entrance. If you haven't been there, think of the space normally reserved for a bar and it's about the same set up. There is a high black counter top where the kitchen crew places their finished works of art. More on that later.
Our small table was well-spaced away from our neighbors, and a dark wood pew from a historic courthouse served as the back-rest for our table and the adjacent one. Wine glasses were not already placed on the table, unlike several other French style restaurants. If you don't get wine there, you feel like you're being robbed of an experience while the waiter whisks your empty glasses away. Not here. No pepper was present, but sea salt was available. Encouraging.
Our blue dress shirt clad waiter said hello and asked us if we had any allergies that they should be aware of. Oh shit. Did they get the message about the birthday? I tried to drop a heavy hint. "When I made the reservation this afternoon, I mentioned a few things..." Poor guy didn't hear me. Just go with it. To save you from the suspense, no, the message had not been conveyed, but I did get the chance to let them know later on, and they came thru. A small serving of homemade coffee ice cream with a candle in it. Beautiful.
Our waiter checked in with us about how to handle our allergies we mentioned and brought out some free starters for us. They have their own farm down the road, called Miel Farm, where they get a good share of their ingredients. Our starters were bread and butter pickles fresh from the farm. Bread and butter usually aren't my favorite, but for a starter it worked great. (Theme alert: things that aren't favorites turn out great here). Fresh baked rolls arrived soon afterward and were too hot to handle immediately. Homemade butter came along with them. Now, if there is someone out there who does not like homemade, sesame-topped rolls fresh out of the oven with authentic butter who is reading this - - why are you reading this?
The menu is small and very French. You will find your eyes lingering on the appetizer selections of frogs legs/escargot, or foie gras wondering if those or the cheese plate should be your chosen starter. I'm not expansionist by nature; I'm a southern boy at heart. Emily took some liberties with her birthday evening, however, and ordered the frogs legs/escargot for us both. Miel's menu says "No splitting, no autographs." Our helpful, courteous and fun waiter explained that splitting plates causes the artistry of the dish to be lost, but sharing is no problem. The menu also states that the wait staff can help with detailed explanations of wine pairings with your meal. Indeed they could, as our waiter spun us around with logic we could not follow, but for wine connoisseurs I'm sure this would be no problem. One criticism - I did feel like the wine had been pushed a bit. Keep your head about you on that score. Wines won't break your budget, as they range from $7 to $15 by glass and $30ish by bottle, but still, heads up.
Hesitations cast aside, our sense of adventure was rewarded. Frog legs are a lot like a chicken wing, and came fried. Two legs were delicately placed over six escargot. I thought the legs were nicely and lightly breaded, but could have used a sauce to add some flavor. The escargot were not fried, but lightly simmering in what appeared to be a garlic-butter base as they arrived. We were already enjoying ourselves immensely and we had just hit our appetizer. Appetizers range from $7 to $15.
We took forever to order our meals because we just couldn't decide. Be sure to ask if you need direction. Vegetarians have a few options, but you're really going to enjoy what you order if you step outside the box a bit. Grouper, veal, venison, steak, and bouillabaisse are all options that looked worth entire evenings themselves. I chose the venison at $34. Most meals were in the $20 range.
As I had noticed the kitchen on the way in, and emboldened by the successes of cracking the frog-leg space/time continuum, I wondered if it would be appropriate to watch the meals as they were made in progress. I asked the server who was filling our water glass if it would be an imposition to watch. She was entirely encouraging. "That's why they're there, feel free to go up at anytime. Bring your wine. It's a tranquil Saturday so they should be able to talk." So Emily and I gathered our wine glasses and went up front. We had a blast watching the dishes come to fruition in front of our eyes. Our water-filler turned out to be the better half of the ownership team of the restaurant. She is, in a word, charming. This was hosting in the sense that foodies will hope for: just an owner talking to an interested couple. We watched, drank, and talked as we enjoyed this spontaneous intermission to the meal. Our waiter had refolded our napkins and had them ready for us upon our return. We successfully coordinated our return to the table with the arrival of our entrees because our waiter warned us a few minutes beforehand that our meals were coming. I felt totally comfortable.
It's in the details of the venison that Miel really begins to shine. The venison apparently comes from a large reserve in Texas where the deer are totally free range. They are actually hunted with bow and arrow, and come incredibly fresh. They didn't bother to ask me how I wanted it cooked, which I took as a very positive sign. Personally, I love medium-rare in my steaks, and that's the way it came. Onion slivers came artfully placed above the thyme-seasoned venison, which curled itself into separate concentric circles, requiring only a few strokes of the knife to reach bite-size pieces. The tender, light meat creates an instant impression, followed by the hit of the onion and seasoning.
While the venison was the focus of the meal, it was by no means the focus of the plate. The rectangular plate had four separate divisions of offerings: the venison on the right, venison sausage on the bottom, purple pureed cauliflower underneath fingerletts of a German dough on the left, and brussel sprouts and chestnuts on top. An apple spread meant for use with the sausage appeared in a streak on the lower left. It created the type of impression that you just wanted to look and not disturb the thing. Miel's website boasts attention to artistry as important to their pursuits, and those efforts were not lost on a casual observer. Each offering was just as impressive to the palate as the visage it generated. The soft bounciness of the German dough contrasted with the smooth cauliflower puree, as did the surprising brussel sprouts and chestnut combination. Each had something different to offer, and choosing where to place the fork next became a matter that took a bit of brainpower.
Helping us loose a bit of brainpower were the well-matched wines. Emily had a white to go with her cream sauce gnocchi dish. (Emily found the gnocchi dish "light and fluffy and very tasty"). I had a red to go with my venison. Both had a depth to them that spoke of quality. We spent so much time trading forks that we had hardly dented our meal by the time our waiter rotated around to check on our progress. Seeing that I had yet to dent some parts of my vast entree, he redirected himself and chose to check on us a bit later. A nice aspect of the service is that there aren't enough tables to make the wait staff flustered and paced, so they can be present for each table they serve.
Dessert was on its way and we headed back to observe. Our hostess spent more time with us, as we discovered their plans to support the local community through a youth cooking program. The kids grow everything themselves and learn about great nutrition. Apparently they invest themselves so thoroughly that they get excited about their beet harvest. Adult volunteers are welcome. Emily also noted that the kitchen spends a little extra to avoid aluminum pans - which is one more chemically-conscious element to the Miel experience.
As we enjoyed our conversation, we examined our developing dessert selection. The creme brulee is inverted - it seemed like some sort of engineering degree is required to make it. I smiled as the chef really took the time to make it a work of art. When she was finished, we gave a small victory hurrah which was seconded by the artist's own hurrah and smile. A curved berry spread compliments a semi-hard caramel streak which run underneath the base of the brule. The caramelized sugar forms the casing for the creme, and it is one of the best I've ever had. Additionally, they brought out the candle and ice cream, (which was homemade coffee), as well as two chocolate truffles encased in a small box with white string for Em's birthday, for us to enjoy later.
As if that wasn't enough, every meal at Miel ends with a spoonful of honey. Miel is French for honey, is pronounced Mee-elle, and a little honeycomb resides in the center of the small dab of honey. It is a great way to finish the experience.
This evening is one Emily and I won't forget. It's difficult to find a place like this anywhere, let alone in Nashville. Foodies, be proud of our friends at Miel. Come and enjoy what they offer.
Miel Restaurant
343 53rd Avenue North
Nashville, TN 37209
615-298-3363
www.mielrestaurant.com
